Author Topic: Bouldering training log - 8A in a year possible? (Read 3958 times)

MedvisP · « **Reply #40 on:** September 06, 2011, 07:29:01 PM »

I feel like I'm not doing enough...gonna try a modification to the schedule.

Monday: pinch grip (forearm) training -> x# fingertip pinch lift w/both arms for max time (will add weight once held for 5 seconds)
Tues: assisted concentrics + pinch grip (forearm) training -> x# fingertip pinch lift w/both arms for max time
Wed: eccentrics
Thurs: light pinch grip (forearm) training
Fri: eccentrics
Sat: weighted pull ups
Sun: rest

I'll be starting the pinch lift with 65#, and working my way up from there.

1x4 index finger assisted oac
1x4 towel assisted oac
1x4 index finger assisted oac
65# fingertip pinch lift w/both arms for max time
-1st attempt: 4.5 seconds
-2nd attempts: 6.5 seconds (since I broke 5 seconds, I'll do 70# next time)

MedvisP · « **Reply #41 on:** September 07, 2011, 04:25:53 PM »

5x1 oacu negatives, full rom
First 3 for each arm were about 10 seconds, then the last two dropped to about 5 seconds. A huuuuge improvement from last week.

MedvisP · « **Reply #42 on:** September 10, 2011, 11:04:19 AM »

I had to skip yesterday's eccentrics because I was feeling pretty sore in elbows (it's completely fine now). I'm going to the rock gym tomorrow so I dont know if I should do today's weighted pull ups and risk not being at full capacity tomorrow...now that I think about it, I also need to let my calluses recover so I dont get any flappers. I'll skip weighted pull ups today and just do them on Monday.

MedvisP · « **Reply #43 on:** September 11, 2011, 02:02:22 PM »

Went to the bouldering gym today…let’s just say that my training is paying off

I’m now able to do moves that would be considered v5/v6, but still can’t send the problems as a whole. I didn’t try any v4’s (was trying to push myself on 5’s/6’s) but I’m sure I would’ve been able to do at least one. I seem to be on track for my “one rating per month” schedule that I’ve set for myself. Back to regularly scheduled training tomorrow…bumping the pull up weight to +70pounds.

Video from today: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_dtKYhHyHw

MedvisP · « **Reply #44 on:** September 12, 2011, 04:03:05 PM »

3x3 pullups +70#
...f#ck yea. I can tell this still isn't my 3 rep max (almost...but not quite). I might be able to do 3 reps with 80. We'll see next time.

MedvisP · « **Reply #45 on:** September 13, 2011, 02:30:47 PM »

I feel like substituting the assisted concetric day with another weighted pull up day, just because it's difficult to quantify exactly how much assist I'm getting with the one arm concentrics. So...revised schedule:

Monday: pinch grip (forearm) training -> x# fingertip pinch lift w/both arms for max time (will add weight once held for 5 seconds)
3 sets of dead hang pull ups to failure
Tues: weighted pull ups
Wed: eccentrics
Thurs: weighted pull ups
Fri: eccentrics
Sat: weighted pull ups
Sun: rest

Today:
3x3 +75# pullups
Unfortunately, I think this is my 3 rep max at the moment. I'll try 3 reps of 80 next time but I doubt it'll go. I would like to get it to at least 85 soon.

MedvisP · « **Reply #46 on:** September 14, 2011, 04:19:59 PM »

1x1 oacu eccentrics, bodyweight : 15 seconds each

1x1 oacu eccentrics, +5# : 3 seconds each
Just that 5 pounds makes it so much more difficult. I probably could've held it for 5+ seconds if I did it as my first rep.

Hmm...I seem a bit off today. I think trying the weighted attempt so soon after the 15 second bodyweight negative got to me.

1x1 oacu eccentrics, bodyweight : 10 seconds each

MedvisP · « **Reply #47 on:** September 15, 2011, 07:12:49 PM »

3x3 +85# pullups

Still not my 3 rep max...I can feel it.

MedvisP · « **Reply #48 on:** September 17, 2011, 06:01:44 PM »

Did a lot of misc upper body exercises today and yesterday, so I didn't/am not going to the eccentrics/pullups for these two days.

MedvisP · « **Reply #49 on:** September 19, 2011, 04:23:40 PM »

70# fingertip pinch lift w/both arms for max time
-1st attempt: 2 seconds
-2nd attempt: 7 seconds (held for more than 5 seconds, so 75 pounds next time)

3 sets of bodyweight dead hang pull ups to failure
-1st set: 17
-2nd set: 17
-3rd set: 15

MedvisP · « **Reply #50 on:** September 20, 2011, 03:12:44 PM »

3x4 pull ups with 90# additional weight. Don't ask how I pulled that off...I'm not sure either.

MedvisP · « **Reply #51 on:** September 21, 2011, 06:31:21 PM »

Climbed outside for about an hour and a half today. I'm enjoying my newly developed strength. Today's negatives might not be the best, but I'll still do them.

1x1 oacu negatives with 5# in my other hand

About 7 seconds with my left arm, 10 seconds with my right

Another round of 1x1 oacu negatives with 5#
3 seconds each this time...definitely felt it. I expected it though. The climbing earlier took a bit out of me.

MedvisP · « **Reply #52 on:** September 22, 2011, 09:30:58 PM »

3x3 pull ups +90#

MedvisP · « **Reply #53 on:** September 23, 2011, 02:28:53 PM »

+5# one arm negatives, about 4 seconds each. I went climbing/did some muscle ups earlier today so I'm probably a bit fatigued. I'm going to take tomorrow off because I'm probably going to the bouldering gym on Sunday. Let's see if I can send a v5

MedvisP · « **Reply #54 on:** September 25, 2011, 03:39:21 PM »

Just got back from 4 hours of bouldering. I'm so much stronger than I was last week. Unfortunately I didn't send any v4s/v5s but I'm getting there. I just realized it hasn't even been 4 months since I started bouldering and I find myself getting frustrated for not being able to climb above v4...kind of funny. Mark my words, I will be climbing v5 by the end of October

And yes, I know I put a lot of emphasis on ratings.

I may need to divert some of my pull up training towards finger/forearm/grip strength training though...they're strong but I'm not satisfied. I'm still getting shut down buy some of the more difficult pinches.

Also, my skin has officially turned into leather (4 hours of climbing and not a single cut!).

MedvisP · « **Reply #55 on:** September 27, 2011, 07:56:29 PM »

3x1 pullups +100#

I'll probably do the same on Thurs. Hopefully go for 3x2.

MedvisP · « **Reply #56 on:** September 28, 2011, 05:39:35 PM »

1x1 10 second negatives with each arm, holding 5# in other hand
1x1 10 second bodyweight negatives with each arm

I was almost able to completely lock off with my left arm. I did it with my right arm relatively easily.

MedvisP · « **Reply #57 on:** September 28, 2011, 06:28:57 PM »

Progression timeline (so far):
August 19 - 3x5 pull ups with 35 pounds additional weight
September 20 - 3x4 pull ups with 90 pounds of additional weight
September 27 - 3x1 pull ups with 100 pounds of additional weight

August 29 - Unable to do unassisted negatives
September 04 - 5 second one arm negatives (oan)
September 14 - 15 second oan
September 23 - 4 second oan with 5 pounds extra weight
September 28 - 10 second oan with 5 pounds extra weight

Started bouldering early July. Climbing v3 pretty solid right now, hopefully v4/v5 soon. Planning to climb v5 by the end of October.

MedvisP · « **Reply #58 on:** September 29, 2011, 06:00:36 PM »

Pretty solid day of climbing...worked on a really crimpy route to develop some finger strength. No pull ups for today.

MedvisP · « **Reply #59 on:** September 30, 2011, 12:18:34 PM »

One arm negatives with 10 pounds of weight!
3 seconds with left arm
5 seconds with right arm
Not amazing but I'll have it to 10 seconds within a week.

Probably going climbing on Sunday, but I'm reluctant to take Saturday off because I already skipped the last weighted pull up day...I'll see how I feel tomorrow.

30 second bodyweight one arm negatives, both arms. I love how easy these are now.
7 muscle ups (random. Just wanted to see how easily I could do them now)

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Author Topic: Bouldering training log - 8A in a year possible? (Read 3958 times)