Author Topic: Bouldering training log - the road to 8A/V11 (Read 10162 times)

MedvisP · « **Reply #200 on:** July 10, 2012, 01:14:19 PM »

I dont get it... it feels like my legs havent recovered from last week. Weighted pistols 3x/week may be too much along with the basketball and parkour that I already do. Gonna change to 2x/week and see how that goes. I also haven't been including parkour/basketball in the written schedule but I guess I will now.

M: rest
Tu: 5 hours of climbing
W: Dumbbell rows (to target lats, improving lock off strength), weighted pistols, V-sits
Th: parkour/precision training
F: 5 hours of climbing
Sa: basketball/parkour
Su: 5 hours of climbing, weighted pistols

Ok, now that I see it written out fully I know why my legs haven't recovered :P

MedvisP · « **Reply #201 on:** July 11, 2012, 03:29:58 PM »

5x5 straight arm dumbbell rows, 50lbs, 3 min rest between sets
- add 10lbs next time
3x5 10 second V-sits, 10lbs at ankles, 3 min rest between sets
- add 5lbs next time
- with 15lbs, switch back to L-sits and work up to V-sits
5x5 pistols (each leg), +45lbs, 3 min rest between sets
- add 10lbs next time

MedvisP · « **Reply #202 on:** July 22, 2012, 03:30:23 PM »

Back from a three day “vacation”. If that’s what the average person calls fun, this is a sad world. Back to regularly scheduled programming. Instead of climbing today (Sunday), I'll be climbing tomorrow along with the regular Tuesday session.

MedvisP · « **Reply #203 on:** July 28, 2012, 11:12:36 AM »

This week has been kind of weird. I climbed 4 times instead of 3, which means I had to skip the normal Wednesday weights session.

MedvisP · « **Reply #204 on:** July 29, 2012, 08:10:43 PM »

3x5 pistols (each leg), +55lbs, 3 min rest between sets
- do 5x5 next time

MedvisP · « **Reply #205 on:** August 01, 2012, 04:18:15 PM »

3x5 straight arm dumbbell rows, 60lbs, 3 min rest between sets
- 5x5 next time (I feel like I'll be repeating this weight a few times)

http://i.imgur.com/zuING.png
I just tested my max L-sit with 15lbs and it's around 20 seconds
I'm gonna add enough wait so that my max hold is around 10 seconds
-After testing, I maxed out at 8 seconds with 20lbs at my ankles. I'll work from here.
6x1 6 second L-sits, 20lbs at ankles, 3 min rest between sets
-repeat weight until max hold is around 15 seconds

Gonna do a few hours of parkour instead of pistols

MedvisP · « **Reply #206 on:** August 03, 2012, 01:02:14 PM »

Going bouldering outside tomorrow

MedvisP · « **Reply #207 on:** August 07, 2012, 11:28:17 AM »

Apparently I've lost 3 pounds... need to eat more.

MedvisP · « **Reply #208 on:** August 08, 2012, 04:43:48 PM »

4x5 straight arm dumbbell rows, 60lbs, 3 min rest between sets
- Didnt feel comfortable enough with the weight to do 5x5 yet. Next time for sure.

Cant do L-sits or pistols today because I strained a muscle in my lower back and it hurts when I fully extend my right leg.

MedvisP · « **Reply #209 on:** August 12, 2012, 10:52:16 AM »

Leaving for Bishop tomorrow for 4 days of camping and bouldering

MedvisP · « **Reply #210 on:** August 19, 2012, 06:46:42 PM »

Havent been able to do pistols for a while due to minor injuries. I'll pick them up again next week if my ankle heals by then. I'll finally be able to start weighted L-sits again though.

MedvisP · « **Reply #211 on:** August 22, 2012, 08:46:38 PM »

5x5 straight arm dumbbell rows, 60lbs, 3 min rest between sets
- not the best form but whatever... gonna decide on a new exercise for lats.
Still haven't fully recovered from the lower back strain (can't do L-sits/pistols)

MedvisP · « **Reply #212 on:** August 27, 2012, 12:16:35 PM »

Finally held a solid front lever (about 4 seconds). Gonna be doing these instead of dumbbell rows from now on. I also feel like trying something new. I'll be replacing one rest day with more training to see how my body handles it.

M: front levers
Tu: 5 hours of climbing
W: front levers, V-sits
Th: rest
F: 5 hours of climbing
Sa: rest
Su: 5 hours of climbing, weighted pistols
(also going to be biking to school pretty much every day)

Can't hold the front lever for 8 seconds yet (minimum time listed on the prelepin table for isometrics), so I need to figure out the best way to approach them.

MedvisP · « **Reply #213 on:** August 29, 2012, 08:33:09 PM »

front lever work (not organized yet)

6x1 6 second L-sits, 20lbs at ankles, 3 min rest between sets
- test max hold next time. If 15sec, add 5lbs

MedvisP · « **Reply #214 on:** September 03, 2012, 06:15:40 PM »

Max single leg front lever: 22 seconds
4x15sec single leg front levers

MedvisP · « **Reply #215 on:** September 05, 2012, 08:55:50 PM »

I’ve been making a lot of progress these past few climbing sessions. Mostly in the cave, with things like body positioning and keeping tension. I love climbing in the cave.
Why did I do weighted L-sits last time? I said I was going to do V-sits on the schedule -.- oops.

front levers
- 5xfull front levers until failure (7 sec, 6 sec, 5 sec, 4 sec, 4 sec)
- last 3 were slightly above parallel (lats couldn't handle parallel anymore)

max high V-sit: 12 sec
- 5x8sec V-sits

MedvisP · « **Reply #216 on:** September 10, 2012, 05:49:22 PM »

front levers
- 5xfull front levers until failure (8 sec, 6 sec, 5sec, 4sec, fail)
- not sure what happened on that last one... lats were totally shot. Max hold is up though.

MedvisP · « **Reply #217 on:** September 12, 2012, 06:10:46 PM »

front levers
- 5xfull front levers until failure (8 sec, 6 sec, 5 sec, 4 sec, 4 sec)

max high V-sit: 17 sec
- 4x12sec V-sits
- 5 second increase on my max in one week?... must've been tired last time or something.

MedvisP · « **Reply #218 on:** September 17, 2012, 06:58:13 PM »

front levers
- 5xfull front levers until failure (9 sec, 7 sec, 6 sec, 4 sec, 4sec)
- lats are not happy

MedvisP · « **Reply #219 on:** September 19, 2012, 04:32:05 PM »

So I just filmed my front lever for the first time to check out my form and it turns out that my body is slightly bent at the middle. Need to focus on keeping my legs aligned with my torso.

front levers
- 5xfront levers until failure (9 sec, 7 sec, 6 sec, 3 sec, 3 sec)
- still tired from yesterday

max high V-sit: 19sec
- 4x13 sec V-sits

News:

Author Topic: Bouldering training log - the road to 8A/V11 (Read 10162 times)