Author Topic: Bouldering training log - 8A in a year possible? (Read 3958 times)

MedvisP · « **Reply #120 on:** December 15, 2011, 05:29:07 PM »

Started to rain as soon as we got to the boulders. Will just do another ab circuit and 3x15 wide grip pullups to make up for it (random...yes). Need to conserve myself for tomorrow's concentrics.

MedvisP · « **Reply #121 on:** December 16, 2011, 01:41:44 PM »

Gonna start doing archer chin ups (with index finger assist) instead of the usual rope assisted oac concentrics.

3x3 archer chin ups w/ index finger assist, bodyweight

MedvisP · « **Reply #122 on:** December 18, 2011, 05:32:19 PM »

Back from 5 hours of bouldering. I’m finally comfortable with reading problems and figuring out proper beta. I’ve gotten noticeably stronger in the past week and my technique is starting to catch up to my level of strength. Made some progress on one of the V6s I was working on and started on a new one. I’m two moves away from finishing both of them.

MedvisP · « **Reply #123 on:** December 21, 2011, 03:15:44 PM »

5 consecutive 8sec oac negatives, each arm
ab circuit, 5 lbs of weight at ankles

MedvisP · « **Reply #124 on:** December 22, 2011, 06:36:35 PM »

Gym is closed on sunday because of christmas, so I'm going to go on Monday. It's going to make that week's training a bit sloppy... oh well. At least it means I'll have an extra rest day before climbing, which may help my performance. Hopefully I can send both V6s that day. I know the beta for both, I just have to do them.

Also, from now on I'm going to make myself stretch for at least 30 minutes a day. I should've been doing this since the start of this log...

MedvisP · « **Reply #125 on:** December 23, 2011, 12:43:39 PM »

3x5 archer chin ups w/ index finger assist, +10lbs
ab circuit, 10lbs at ankles
30 minutes of stretching

MedvisP · « **Reply #126 on:** December 24, 2011, 08:58:32 PM »

Will just be stretching today/Sunday (extra rest day because gym is closed on Sunday). Climbing on Monday.

MedvisP · « **Reply #127 on:** December 26, 2011, 07:00:14 PM »

Almost 6 hours of bouldering

MedvisP · « **Reply #128 on:** December 28, 2011, 03:12:48 PM »

Just got back from a 17 mile hike. I never post my other activities here but this seems noteworthy. Going to the bouldering gym tomorrow to finally get a membership. Time to focus on the technical aspects of climbing rather than just strength.

MedvisP · « **Reply #129 on:** December 29, 2011, 11:08:47 PM »

4 hours of climbing
Sent V7 today, which is 7A+
I'm going to be modifying my training schedule to make it more climbing oriented. I need to start climbing more if I want to reach my goal. I'm not sure how I want to do it yet... need to think about a few things.

MedvisP · « **Reply #130 on:** January 01, 2012, 04:45:52 PM »

4 hours of climbing

MedvisP · « **Reply #131 on:** January 03, 2012, 05:43:57 PM »

4 hours of climbing. Going to start working in the cave a lot more.

MedvisP · « **Reply #132 on:** January 05, 2012, 12:40:44 PM »

4 hours of climbing yesterday. First time climbing back to back days... I feel pretty good but definitely need some rest. I'll probably rest until Sunday to get a long session in.

I'm getting much better at reading routes, and my finger/grip strength is developing pretty quickly.

MedvisP · « **Reply #133 on:** January 06, 2012, 09:19:17 PM »

3.5 hours of climbing

MedvisP · « **Reply #134 on:** January 09, 2012, 12:24:46 PM »

Climbed for 4 hours yesterday

I obviously don't have time to work out now that I'm climbing so much (right now it's either a climbing day or a rest day)
I need to make this log more interesting now
http://vimeo.com/25632666

Now that I have my school schedule I'll be able to start with planned work outs again.

MedvisP · « **Reply #135 on:** January 10, 2012, 10:50:02 PM »

4 hours of climbing

MedvisP · « **Reply #136 on:** January 12, 2012, 02:40:28 PM »

I've been neglecting my opposing muscles. I should start working on them before it becomes a problem
(will come up with a proper training regimen today, now that I have my school schedule)

3x5 dips, full ROM, bodyweight (will add 10lbs every day until I can't finish a set)

Possible training schedule once school starts
Su: 5 hours of gym climbing
M: rest
T: weighted archer pull ups, dips
W: weighted negatives
Th: dips
F: 5 hours of gym climbing
Sa: rest

I actually think this is a really solid schedule. I hope I can fully recover on Monday... I put the archer pull ups before the negatives because they're not as strenuous.

MedvisP · « **Reply #137 on:** January 13, 2012, 01:02:34 PM »

3x5 dips, full ROM, +10lbs

I need to strengthen my lower back too... I'd like to deadlift for this but considering I don't have the right equipment I'll just do superman static holds for now.
5x20sec

MedvisP · « **Reply #138 on:** January 15, 2012, 03:14:38 PM »

3.5 hours of crimpy overhanging bouldering

MedvisP · « **Reply #139 on:** January 16, 2012, 06:04:54 PM »

3x5 dips, full ROM, +20lbs
5x25sec superman static holds

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Author Topic: Bouldering training log - 8A in a year possible? (Read 3958 times)