Author Topic: Bouldering training log - 8A in a year possible? (Read 3958 times)

MedvisP · « **on:** July 09, 2011, 12:46:08 PM »

Rough guideline for me to follow, will probably be adjusted as I progress.

Goals -
- One arm pull up
- One arm chin up
- Improve finger/grip strength
- Improve grip endurance
- Learn proper footwork
- Build up calluses on fingers
- Stretch

I modify my schedule once in a while, so read through and you'll see them.

MedvisP · « **Reply #1 on:** July 09, 2011, 12:50:07 PM »

Grip training today at rock wall
Held different positions for 10-20 seconds, depending on level of difficulty
Already starting to see calluses forming on fingers
Skinned the cat a few times
Held single leg front lever for a while

Will update the other categories on Monday.

Update: Just held the single leg front lever for 10 seconds.

MedvisP · « **Reply #2 on:** July 12, 2011, 08:02:54 PM »

5 hours of climbing indoors. I can already tell I've improved since my last time, both physically (endurance/grip) and technically.
Randomly did some single leg front levers and found out I can hold it with straight arms pretty easily.

Today's biggest achievement...sent my first V1! It was my goal for today and I did it. V2 next time.

MedvisP · « **Reply #3 on:** July 13, 2011, 07:46:17 PM »

Haven't been able to do any hanging tests because of the rips on my hands. Will do asap. (remember to keep shoulders tight...)

MedvisP · « **Reply #4 on:** July 15, 2011, 08:02:13 PM »

Taking it easy on the shoulder. Not resting completely because...I hate resting.
About 30 minutes of table climbing after 4 hours of basketball (surprisingly good training when there are no rock walls around).

MedvisP · « **Reply #5 on:** July 16, 2011, 05:58:28 PM »

Simplified the goals a bit. I can tell whether I'm improving or not without them.
An hour of table climbing
Some body prop with variations (going up/down, side to side)
More front lever work. Still waiting for right shoulder to recover to continue back lever stuff. Hurts to dead hang.

Happy with my technical gains so far. Need to hit the rock gym to test myself.

MedvisP · « **Reply #6 on:** July 18, 2011, 03:07:56 PM »

More grip training at the glued up rock wall. I'm really surprised with how much stronger my fingers have gotten.
Did a few muscle ups for the heck of it. I don't know how they apply to rock climbing but I'm sure they help somehow. Will definitely help with my parkour though.
Hoping to hit the rock gym by this weekend to test my progress.

MedvisP · « **Reply #7 on:** July 30, 2011, 10:54:05 PM »

Oops, forgot to update this.
Went to the climbing gym on Wed for a 5 hour session...really pleased with my progress. Was almost able to do a v3 rated problem.
More grip/technique training at the rock wall today.
Callus development is coming along really well.

MedvisP · « **Reply #8 on:** July 31, 2011, 02:11:03 PM »

Worked on crimps, pinches, and compressions today at the rock wall, as well as transitioning between holds.

MedvisP · « **Reply #9 on:** August 01, 2011, 09:31:39 PM »

2 more hours of the rock wall today. Hopefully hitting the rock gym on Wed for another progression test. Goal is to completely finish a v3 and do some movements on a v4.

MedvisP · « **Reply #10 on:** August 03, 2011, 05:55:20 PM »

6 hours of climbing at the rock gym...so tired I can barely put together a complete thought right now.
Finger strength is increasing pleasantly fast and technique has improved quite a bit.
So close to finishing three separate v3 problems...getting there. I know I could've done two of them if I wasn't tired, but I need to get stronger for the third one.
Got climbing shoes so now I can legitimately practice technique at the park.
My knowledge about techniques/what to do is surprising me. I helped a few guys out with their problems, felt good.

Note to self: work on pinch grip strength and one armed bodyweight support.

MedvisP · « **Reply #11 on:** August 05, 2011, 05:49:07 PM »

Few hours of training at the rock walls today. Video sample: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jor2Zzs8NZE

superdude88 · « **Reply #12 on:** August 05, 2011, 06:39:07 PM »

Keep it up your doing really good.

MedvisP · « **Reply #13 on:** August 07, 2011, 01:16:54 PM »

Found a way to work on pinch grip strength at home by lifting a decently heavy fan.

Found some cinderblocks that I'll try to think of a use for.
Figured out a way to use a chair for crimp strength training. The benefit of this is I can keep adding weight to the seat, making it harder to lift.

20 minutes of stretching, 10 minute break, 20 minutes of stretching

Ok, I'm going to try to come up with a workout plan using the 40 pound cinderblock I just got. I guess I have two five pound weights I can add to it somehow.
-2 handed pinch lift (holding vertically) for max time. Current: 12s
-2 handed mini compression lift (holding horizontally) for max time. Current: 11.5
-1 handed pinch lift (holding vertically) for max time. Current: 0s
Will probably add/modify at some point.

1x5 onehanded towel assisted pullups with each hand to end the day.

MedvisP · « **Reply #14 on:** August 08, 2011, 12:06:46 PM »

20 minutes of stretching
2x5 one arm towel assisted pullups, each arm

5x2 one arm towel assisted pullups, each arm
Going to take it really easy tomorrow. Hopefully I can hit the rock gym on Wed.

MedvisP · « **Reply #15 on:** August 10, 2011, 12:02:01 PM »

Rest day yesterday and wont be able to go the rock gym today...so I guess I'll resume random training
5x2 one arm towel assisted pullups, each arm
12 deadhang pullups (forgot to breathe properly...had to stop due to headache)
Trying out weighted pullups...
5 w/25lbs added
7 pullups w/25lbs added
7 pullups w/25lbs added
9 pullups w/25lbs added
9 pullups w/25lbs added
5 pullups w/35lbs added
5 pullups w/35lbs added
7 pullups w/35lbs added
(if anyone is reading this and wondering, most of these were spread out throughout the day)
Planning on continuing adding weight until I can only do 3-4 per set

Minimally-assisted oapu negatives 1x1

5 pullups w/40 lbs added. This seems like a good place to work for now. I managed to do 5 but it was a bit tough.
I think it would be good to add some pushing too so...10 pushups w/40 pounds added

Going to do some light climbing tomorrow

MedvisP · « **Reply #16 on:** August 11, 2011, 04:12:57 PM »

About 2 hours of climbing on the rock walls at the park. Got much farther on the route we made up after only a week.

10ish muscle ups. I can do them without less swing than before, which is good.

Randomly did a pretty big 180 cat by my friend's house. Need to film that.

MedvisP · « **Reply #17 on:** August 12, 2011, 11:04:25 AM »

Rest day today (by that I mean I'll be playing basketball for 4 hours)
Bouldering outdoors tomorrow

Tom Coppola · « **Reply #18 on:** August 12, 2011, 12:55:51 PM »

it'd be a good idea to program your weighted pull ups instead of just randomly doing them throughout the day.

if 40# is your 5 rep max, i'd recommend doing 3x5 starting at 35# then linearly progressing by 5# a week. lifting 2x a week. when you stop seeing increases then you could start doing percentage increases.

weighted pull ups are very effective for getting OAC especially considering you're doing assisted and negative OAC work and you're doing lots of grip training.

MedvisP · « **Reply #19 on:** August 12, 2011, 01:14:57 PM »

Quote from: Tom Coppola on August 12, 2011, 12:55:51 PM

it'd be a good idea to program your weighted pull ups instead of just randomly doing them throughout the day.

if 40# is your 5 rep max, i'd recommend doing 3x5 starting at 35# then linearly progressing by 5# a week. lifting 2x a week. when you stop seeing increases then you could start doing percentage increases.

weighted pull ups are very effective for getting OAC especially considering you're doing assisted and negative OAC work and you're doing lots of grip training.

Thanks, I'll do that. How much should I rest between sets?

On another note, just managed to do fully unassisted 5ish second negatives. Could probably hold for longer but it's supposed to be a rest day...

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Author Topic: Bouldering training log - 8A in a year possible? (Read 3958 times)