Author Topic: Bouldering training log - 8A in a year possible? (Read 2600 times)

MedvisP · « **Reply #140 on:** January 18, 2012, 04:46:49 PM »

4 hours of climbing

MedvisP · « **Reply #141 on:** January 20, 2012, 07:03:32 PM »

3x5 dips, full ROM, +30lbs
5x25sec superman static holds

I just figured out a way to directly train crimp strength at home (which I previously thought would only be possible with a hangboard). Basically all I'm going to do is crimp the non padded parts of my pull up bar. I tested it today and it works fine. I'll be adding that on Wednesday, so the schedule I'll be on once school starts looks like this now:
Su: 5 hours of gym climbing
M: rest
T: weighted archer pull ups, dips, weighted finger lifts
W: weighted negatives, crimp training
Th: rest
F: 5 hours of gym climbing
Sa: rest

MedvisP · « **Reply #142 on:** January 22, 2012, 03:00:59 PM »

4 hours of climbing

MedvisP · « **Reply #143 on:** January 26, 2012, 09:26:47 AM »

Climbed for about 3.5 hours yesterday. I'm flashing V4 regularly now.

MedvisP · « **Reply #144 on:** January 29, 2012, 07:15:12 PM »

5 hours of climbing
I found a quarter pad edge in my house that I can use for crimp training. I can't even hang on it yet with my whole bodyweight, so I'll just assist with my legs until I can.

MedvisP · « **Reply #145 on:** February 01, 2012, 11:19:17 PM »

4.5 hours of climbing. Crimping is getting strong.

MedvisP · « **Reply #146 on:** February 03, 2012, 09:37:55 PM »

5 second OAC negatives with 25lbs of additional weight! So glad I’ll only be doing this once a week, because these are brutal. I wasn't planning on trying these today, but I just wanted to see how it felt/what I could do at this point. I'm going to be doing these when school starts.

MedvisP · « **Reply #147 on:** February 05, 2012, 05:24:47 PM »

5.5 hours of climbing

MedvisP · « **Reply #148 on:** February 11, 2012, 11:35:11 AM »

4.5 hours of climbing on Wednesday (three days ago)
3 hours of climbing yesterday

MedvisP · « **Reply #149 on:** February 12, 2012, 04:59:27 PM »

5 hours of climbing
Starting school tomorrow, which means I'll be starting the new training schedule:

Su: 5 hours of gym climbing
M: rest
T: weighted archer pull ups, dips, weighted finger lifts
W: weighted negatives, crimp training
Th: rest
F: 5 hours of gym climbing
Sa: rest

MedvisP · « **Reply #150 on:** **Today** at 12:13:11 PM »

3x3 archer chin ups w/ index finger assist, +20lbs
1x5 dips, +35lbs (easy)
1x5 dips, +40lbs (easy)
1x5 dips, +45lbs (near failure at fifth rep, good)

One finger distal phalanx lifts -
Index fingers: 30lbs, 5x10sec
Middle fingers: 40lbs, 5x10sec
Ring fingers: 25lbs 5x10sec

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Author Topic: Bouldering training log - 8A in a year possible? (Read 2600 times)

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